START-UP PROCEDURE

My friend John Lacombe came by the shop today to help me adjust the intake and exhaust valves prior to start-up.  They had been adjusted when the engine was rebuilt but I chose to check them.  They were a bit off.  It's a good thing I double checked.  A valve that doesn't seat properly can malfunction.  After we start the engine and bring it up to temperature, the head will need to be re-torqued and the valves re-adjusted.

John is a race car builder and driver.  He holds several titles.  It is so nice to have access to his talents.  However, the first thing he did was make fun of my fuel filter...picky, picky, picky.  He advised me to use aircraft fuel filters with replaceable filter cartridges; a much better design.  I will still use the filter I bought from Napa between the fuel tank and fuel pump.  

The archive listing of this blog contains detailed step-by-step photos and narratives regarding this restoration since it began late last December.  Please direct any comments and questions to tommystoplesscars@yahoo.com.

Y'all come back now...

Tom McCurry 

Materials and equipment purchased from:

Moss Motors (mossmotors.com)

Victoria British (victoriabritish.com)

Eastwood (eastwood.com)

The Roadster Factory (the-roadster-factory.com)

English Parts (englishparts.com)

Napa Auto Parts (napaonline.com)

Apple Hydraulics (applehydraulics.com)

Coker Tire (cokertire.com)

WEBER 45 DCOE CARBURETOR INSTALLED

Fitting this Weber carburetor was a bit difficult because all I had was the carburetor and manifold.  It was necessary to fabricate all the linkage.  

I bought the accelerator cable from a local bicycle shop.  It's the same material, only less expensive.

You will notice the fuel filter installation in the photo above.  It is a generic filter from Napa Auto Parts, cheap and effective.  I also plan to install one between the fuel tank and the fuel pump.

It appears that it will be necessary to purchase another air filter assembly.  The filter I had in stock was a bit large and did not have the proper clearance between it and the wheel house.  Here we go again...buying parts.

The archive listing of this blog contains detailed step-by-step photos and narratives regarding this restoration since it began late last December.  Please direct any comments and questions to tommystoplesscars@yahoo.com.

Later...

Tom McCurry 

Materials and equipment purchased from:

Moss Motors (mossmotors.com)

Victoria British (victoriabritish.com)

Eastwood (eastwood.com)

The Roadster Factory (the-roadster-factory.com)

English Parts (englishparts.com)

Napa Auto Parts (napaonline.com)

Apple Hydraulics (applehydraulics.com)

Coker Tire (cokertire.com)

THE HEAT SHIELD IS COMPLETED

After a long sabbatical, I have resumed work on my MGB.  I had been doing a frame-off rotisserie restoration on a 1961 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 timsnewtoy.blogspot.com and my shop was devoted to it.  

Now, the Healey has been completed and it actually won the "People's Choice Award" in the Hilton Head Island Concours d'Elegance. I'm back!

Today I fabricated and fitted the exhaust manifold heat shield to the manifold.  The shield is fastened to the manifold with stainless steel "U" bolts and deflects the heat away from the brake lines which are visible in the foreground.

Tomorrow I will permanently install the side-draft Weber carburetor.  It will also be necessary to fabricate the accelerator linkage and cable.  

My painter, John, has made a few necessary repairs to the hood and urethane primer has been applied.  Tomorrow, it will be blocked and the final finish will be applied to the underside.

Hopefully, my MG will be on the road by early spring.  I cannot wait to drive it!

Stay tuned...

Tom McCurry

FABRICATION OF A HEAT SHIELD

Realizing that the brake lines are installed in the same position as they were originally, they are in close proximity to the exhaust manifold.  Much to close for me.  So, I am fabricating a heat shield from sheet aluminum to prevent the brake fluid from over heating.  

I have two options.  One, is to fabricate a shield mounted to the frame shielding the brake lines; the other is a shield attached to the header accomplishing the same.  Attaching the shield to the frame is a bit more complicated.  Attaching it to the header is less attractive.  So, I plan to fabricate both styles and choose the one that will be the most effective and the least obtrusive. 

Ya'll come back now...

Tom McCurry

REBUILT WEBER 45 DCOE

I admit,  the thoughts of rebuilding a Weber 45 DCOE was a bit intimidating.  After reading several internet articles about this subject, I was a bit more confident.  

The rebuild kit cost less than $30 and consisted mostly of new gaskets and "O" rings.  Including cleaning the carburetor, the rebuilding process was completed in less than two hours.  

After rebuilding the carburetor, I mounted it on the manifold so the fuel lines, throttle linkage and choke cable could be fitted properly.

Looks great doesn't it...

Tom McCurry

FITTING THE INTAKE MANIFOLD

After bead blasting the aluminum intake manifold, I applied a very thin coat of high temp silver paint.  The paint will prevent the raw aluminum from oxidizing.  

The flange thicknesses of the intake manifold and exhaust manifold vary by 3/16 of an inch.  To compensate for the difference, I attached a shim to the thinner flange.  Now the washer and nut apply the proper pressure to each flange preventing leaks.  Why can't these manufacturers engineer these parts to fit.  It isn't "rocket surgery".  But,  it is what it is.

Now, I am in the process of rebuilding the side-draft Weber carburetor.  As I explained in a previous post, the carburetor was clogged with dirt and varnish.  Cleaning is the first step in the rebuilding process.  This may take some time.

Stay tuned,

Tom McCurry

THE WEBER DCOE45 INTAKE MANIFOLD

At one point in time I was considering the purchase of a supercharger from Moss Motors.  Priced at $4000, it exceeds my current budget.  So, I have decided to install a side-draft Weber carburetor.  The carburetor is used and needs to be rebuilt but rebuild kits are not at all expensive.  

The photo to the right shows the intake manifold for the Weber.  Since it is made of aluminum, I can bead blast it and it will look new.  

I plan to dismantle the carburetor tomorrow and let it soak overnight.  I took a peek inside and it is "full" of dirt and "varnish".  

Love this car...

Tom McCurry

MORE ABOUT WIRING

After locating the fuse block near the firewall,  it was fastened in place.  The wires were then separated and moved to their respective locations.

Next, I went to work on the headlights. I began by fitting the new rubber gaskets behind the headlight buckets and fastening them to the opening in the fender.  

 After the buckets are fastened in place the inner rim is mounted to the bucket.  I replaced the adjusters, wiring and springs on both headlights just to eliminate any future problems.

Finally the headlights are positioned, just to make sure they fit properly.  The finish paint has not been applied yet so the headlight assemblies must be removed.
These headlights are really cool.  The signal lights are actually inside the headlight itself.  If you look closely, you can see the small amber bulb just below the center of the bulb.








The car will also have driving lights.  They will be located in the grille area.

Stay tuned,

Tom McCurry

THE WIRING BEGINS

We are almost ready to drive the "Killer B".  In order for the car to be "road worthy" (not necessarily street legal), we must complete the wiring,  attach the intake and side draft Webber carburetor and install the radiator.

The wiring is a bit complicated, at least it is for me.  In the photo to the right, you will see the wiring harness I purchased from ez2wire.com.  It is a relatively simple harness with everything labeled.  The labels are actually printed on the wires.  This should be easy 2 wire...wish I hadn't said that.

Y'all come back now...hear?

Tom McCurry

FUEL LINES ARE CONNECTED

There are always issues associated with assembling an MG using parts from different year models.  For instance, the fuel delivery system for a '67 MGB is entirely different from that of a '72 model.  It will work but it can be annoying choosing the correct parts from a catalog.  The system I have installed is custom fabricated and is very basic in design.

The photo to the right shows the new fuel line mounted in place.  It is routed through grommets in the frame underneath the right side of the car.  From there it is secured to the deck behind the engine and ends on the left side of the engine compartment near the intake manifold.  It will be connected to the carburetors with a rubber fuel hose.

Stay tuned,

Tom McCurry