Sunday, October 30, 2011

FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION COMPLETED







It has been some time since my last post but the installation of the floor pans is now complete. My friend Paxton has done an amazing job. His welds are near perfect. I pity the guy that finds it necessary to remove these pans. These welds are intended to be permanent.









After the welds are cleaned with a wire brush wheel, seam sealer is applied to the area between the new pan and the frame of the car. With the sealer in place, spray a light coat of primer over the welded and sealed area to highlight any imperfections that may require additional work. Grind the welds and touch-up the seam sealer as required.









After the adjacent areas are sanded and cleaned a heavy coat of epoxy primer should be applied.









The trunk pan, since it will be exposed will require more work than the interior floor pans that will be covered by carpet.


My next post will address preparation of the interior floor pans to receive the seats.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

WELDING NEW TRUNK PAN IN PLACE

























After the old, rusty trunk pan is removed and the perimeter has been cleaned and is free from rust and grease. Now, drill or punch 5/16" holes about every 3" around the perimeter of the pan as shown. Now, you are ready to position the trunk pan.














Because it may be necessary to weld underneath the car, so it should be lifted at least 12 inches and placed securely on jack stands. Be sure the car is level from front to back and side to side. The new trunk pan requires the removal of the trunk latch bracket. The bracket is factory installed with four spot welds and is easily removed by drilling a 5/16" hole directly in the center of the weld. After the bracket is removed, the pan can be moved into place from underneath.














After the pan is in place and level in both directions the welding process can begin. Weld one or two of the perimeter holes on each side of the pan and check to make sure that the pan is still level. If the pan is not tight against the frame where it is to be welded, tap it gently with a hammer and weld that area immediately. Repeat the process until all the holes have been welded. Finally, reinstall the trunk latch bracket. The welding process is complete.



The next post will address preparing the new pan for primer and paint.



TD

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

PREPARING TO INSTALL THE NEW FLOOR PANS







It's been a while since my last post. I've been waiting on my friend Paxton to do the welding for me. Since I don't own a wire welder, it's cheaper to have someone do it for you...cheaper, not necessarily quicker.







I began by removing all the rust from the bonding surfaces and sealing the areas to be completely and permanently covered with POR. POR is a product that encapsulates rusty metal and virtually eleminates the need for further repairs. It is a bit pricey but worth every penney. But, be aware that you cannot use POR on surfaces to be joined by welding. Those surfaces will be coated with POR after the welding is completed because welded surfaces tend to rust quicker than usual.







My next post will deal with welding the floor pans in place.


Later

TD