DIFFERENTIAL IS REASSEMBLED

Late Friday afternoon, Don and I installed the new brake parts I told you about.  Next, we mounted the newly refinished leaf springs and lowering kit to the axle assembly.  This was made a bit easier by suspending the entire differential with the engine hoist.  We bolted the wheels on and now the differential is ready to be installed  on the car.  

Before the front and rear suspensions are refitted, the final coat of paint will need to be applied to the inside of the trunk and engine compartment.







Soon, we will be installing the front and rear suspensions.

Stay tuned,
TD

RECEIVED PARTS TODAY

It has been a while since my last post.  I have been working on an Austin Healey 3000 that has taken all my time.  Tim, the owner, is coming to inspect his car next week and I still have some work to do before he arrives.  You can read all about it at timsnewtoy.blogspot.com. 

Before I began work on the Healey, it was necessary to order some new parts for the differential.  They arrived today, so tomorrow afternoon after the Healey work is done, I will be completing the brake job on the "Killer B".  

Come back and check out the new brakes.

Later,

TD

FINAL PAINT ON THE DIFFERENTIAL

With the differential cleaned and primed two coats of semi-gloss frame paint are applied. The drum brake assemblies have been removed and all the parts cleaned and checked for wear. After painting the brake assembly mounting plate, the brakes can now be installed.

Most of the parts, with the exception of the wheel cylinders, were in good condition. I installed new cylinders just to be on the safe side. The drums have never been resurfaced, so I will have them machined after Christmas.

My plan is to apply the final paint to the engine compartment, trunk, inside of the hood and trunk lid. Then the front and rear suspensions can be installed.

It's taking shape...just look back at the old photos.

TD

CHOOSING THE BODY COLORS

I have been considering colors for the exterior. I always stress over stuff like this. Anyway, early on, my friend and fellow MGB enthusiast, Robert had given me a photo of a yellow MGB that had been customized a bit. I thought it looked cool and began to consider yellow with black “skunk” stripes…the “Killer B”. I have even gone so far as to develop a cartoon sketch of a bumblebee with anger management issues.

As I began to spray the black epoxy primer on the body, I thought it looked pretty good…you know, stealth. So maybe black with yellow stripes? Just when I thought I had a plan.

I just hate red, even though every sports car made is red. The last MGB I restored was Old English White, so I’m burned out on that. The only other “English” color that even half way interests me is British Racing Green and it has been done and done and done. So, for now I guess it is yellow and black…any thoughts?

FINAL PREP FOR TRUNK AND ENGINE COMPARTMENT

Now that the trunk and engine compartment are coated with epoxy primer, they must be examined for imperfections. Re-prime after necessary repairs are made. Now, the surface can be scuffed or wet-sanded with 800 wet or dry paper. Clean and tack the surfaces and apply the final coat of paint.

I have decided to paint the trunk and engine compartment with single stage "hot rod" black paint which will be easy to maintain and has almost the same sheen as the epoxy primer...just more protection.

This car is going to look so BAD !

Rock-n-Roll

TD

CHECK OUT THE NEW "NOSE"

My friend Jake came by the shop to see the car in primer. We made plans to "block" the car next weekend so I will be coating the body with high build primer this week. Before Jake left we set the hood in place just to see how the new nose looks. What do you think?

I love this car...

TD

BODY IN PRIMER

The body has now been coated with epoxy primer. While a coat of primer covers some imperfections in the body work, it highlights others. Next the body will be "scuffed" and several coats of high build primer applied...and the blocking begins

TD

CLEANING & PAINTING THE DIFFERENTIAL

Now for the cleaning process. All the small parts associated with the leaf spring mounts can now be sandblasted, primed and painted.
I placed the rear axle assembly on jack stands on my work table making cleaning much easier. The axle can be rotated easily.
Before cleaning the axle assembly, remove the brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, dust shields, axles and hubs. Now the cleaning process can easily accomplished.
After cleaning, use an engine hoist to raise the assembly off the floor to eye level. An “S” hook can be used to connect the hoist chain to the axle. There is a flange at the leaf spring mounting area that has a 5/16 hole. The “S” hook fits nicely there. Now the assembly can be cleaned with metal cleaner, primed and painted. As a final coat, I used semi-gloss black. It closely represents the original color.

TD

RESTORATION OF THE DIFFERENTIAL

While the body work and welding was going on, I was busy refinishing the rear axle assembly.
Place the car on jack stands. Supporting the rear of the car on the frame rails and not on the rear springs. After disconnecting the brake lines and hand brake cable, remove the bolts at each end of the rear springs and lower the entire assembly with a floor jack.
Now you can easily remove the springs from the axle assembly.

THE NEW NOSE IN PRIMER

I finally sprayed primer on the new nose job today. Just couldn't wait any longer. A little more primer and a lot more sanding and we will be ready for the final finish.

Quite a transformation I would say. I'm still wrestling with the grille style, but aside from that, this is the look I was after.

The small openings on the bottom of each side of the air dam are fresh air ducts to cool the brakes. The two openings toward the center will be used as ventilation for the interior. Although the interior will be covered with Dynamat prior to the installation of any carpeting or upholstry, the cockpit will probably still be a bit warm; especially in the summer. A little fresh air in the floor will certainly be appreciated.

Let me know what you think.

TD

EVEN MORE ABOUT THE "NOSE JOB"

I am so excited about this car. Paxton, pictured above, and Jake, below, have done a tremendous job transforming this ordinary MGB into a one-of-a-kind, eye-catching machine.

Paxton is the best welder I have ever worked with and his talents go well beyond that. His welds are remarkable. He is a wizard with a welder. And Jake, is an artist with his tools. The door, hood and deck lid margins are perfect and the body is unbelievably straight. Their hard work and dedication is greatly appreciated.

Just take a look at the finished product. Now it is ready for primer.

TD

MORE ABOUT THE "NOSE JOB"

This is exciting. Watching this MGB being transformed into the "Killer B". This car is going to be bad to the bone. Take a look.

We are moulding the grille shell to the fenders. A stainless horizontal bar grille and two driving lights are planned. Notice, the "hump" on the nose of the hood has been removed. It is looking less like an MGB all the time. I can't wait to see the air dam in place.

Later,

TD

THE "NOSE JOB"

I wanted to make some subtle changes to the front end...

We removed the relief in the fender for the signal lights and welded in new metal. We didn't use panel bond on this patch because both sides of the patch could be cleaned and painted. Welded areas tend to rust much faster.

I bought a Sebring air dam to replace the bumper and front valence. It will be moulded into the fenders resembling a one piece front end.

Using the grille frame and moulding it into the fenders and air dam will complete the new look.

Stay tuned,

TD

REWORKING THE DOORS

This car is going to be different. No top, no side windows, no outside door handles or locks and, as we discussed previously, no body side moldings or body lines.

The relief in the door panel for the lock and door handle were cut out and new metal was installed with panel bond. Panel bond is a high tech adhesive suitable for these applications.

Since I have decided to eleminate the side windows, it was necessary to cover the window opening in the top of the door. This metal cover will also serve as the top trim for the upholstered door panel.

Before the application of any body filler, the allignment of the door should be checked and fixed in proper position.

Choose a good quality body filler. This product has changed drastically since the early days of 'bondo'. The good stuff costs considerably more but it bonds to the metal better and resists cracking. I will come up with a brand name for you if you need it.

Later,

TD

CLEANING AND PAINTING UNDERNEATH THE CAR

This is a time consuming process, but one that will add value to your restoration. In this case it was necessary to refinish underneath because we had replaced all the floor pans. You know... one thing leads to another.

After the front and rear suspensions are removed, these cars weigh only a few hundred pounds and can be lifted easily by an engine hoist.

With the body shell tilted on its side the underneath can be cleaned and prepared for paint more easily. The joints between the frame rails and the new floor pans were finished with seam sealer.

This car had been undercoated years ago so I chose to apply more undercoating rather than cleaning and preparing for paint.

The entire process should take only about 24 man hours.

Now the body work begins...

TD

INSTALLATION OF WHEEL BEARINGS, ROTORS AND CALIPERS

To begin, all parts must be clean. I strongly suggest using new wheel bearings but if you are considering reusing the old ones, inspect both the bearings and the races that are pressed into the hub for wear. Let the wheel bearings soak in mineral spirits for thirty minutes and blow out with compressed air. Repeat this process with clean mineral spirits until no more debris is found. Now you may pack the bearings with a good quality bearing grease by placing an amount of grease the size of a golf ball in the palm of your hand and press the edge of the bearing into the grease and forcing it out the other side. Grease all bearing races and inside the hub.

Now, fasten the dust covers to the swivel axle. Attach the rotor to the hub and torque the bolts as specified. Attach the hub and rotor assembly to spindle and secure with the nut and cotter pin. Tap the grease cap into place to complete the hub assemble installation.

The caliper can now be attached to the swivel axle assembly and torqued as specified.

The coil springs may be installed safely after the front suspension is mounted to the frame. This will be done after the car is painted and buffed.

RE-ASSEMBLY OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION

To begin, be sure to consult your manual for the proper fastener torque settings. Next, turn the suspension frame upside down and attach the lower fulcrum pins to the bottom of the suspension frame. Install the new polyurethane bushings and A-arms on the ends of the fulcrum pins and fix castle nuts with cotter pins as required. Locate the coil spring pan between the A-arms but do not tighten. Remember to use new lock washers and nyloc nuts. Now, install the sway-bar link in the larger hole in the front of the A-arm assembly.

Now, following the installation of the new lower kingpin bushings and seals, attach the swivel axle assemblies to the A-arms and torque all the fasteners. Next, install the steering arms to the swivel axle assemblies (note: steering arms are different; radius between mounting bolt holes should point upward). Torque bolts properly. Turn the suspension frame right-side-up and attach the shock absorbers to the mounting plates and torque properly. The coil springs cannot be attached until the front suspension is installed on the car, so install the new polyurethane bushings in the top of the kingpin and slide the shock absorber/kingpin bolt in place. Do not tighten this bolt, it will need to be removed when the coil springs are installed.

Next post will address the installation of the wheel bearings, brake rotors and calipers.

Later,

TD

SANDBLASTING AND PAINTING THE SUSPENSION PARTS

I decided, since there were so many parts on this car that would require refinishing, to purchase a sandblasting cabinet. I chose a cabinet about 36 x 24 x 24 complete with a light and a dust recovery system. Refinishing the parts just got easier. After sandblasting all the small parts, spray them with self-etching primer to protect them from rust.

Next, clean or sandblast the suspension frame as required. The frame is considerably larger than my sandblasting cabinet so I cleaned mine using a pneumatic die grinder and a fiber paint remover wheel. It only took about an hour. After the paint, grease and rust were removed, self-etching primer was applied.

After the primer has dried properly, the parts should be lightly sanded and primed with an epoxy primer. Allow this primer to dry overnight and lightly sand again. Clean all the parts to remove dust and grease and apply two coats of single stage, semi-gloss polyurethane paint and allow to dry for at least 24 hours before reassembling the suspension

In my next post, I will discuss the re-assembly of the suspension.

RESTORING THE FRONT SUSPENSION

While Paxton was welding the new floor pans in place, I was busy restoring the front suspension. Fortunately, I had another old suspension in stock so that I didn't need to remove the one on the car.

I began by dismantling the suspension. It is amazing what years of neglect will do to an automobile. Some of the parts were fused together with rust and required a tremendous amount of work just to seperate the pieces.

When all the pieces are seperated, the restoration process began. I determined that the shock absorbers and the swivel axle assemblies will require rebuilding.

The shock absorbers had been leaking fluid for some time and the swivel axle assemblies were frozen so I chose to send them to Apple Hydraulics for proper restoration. They can be reached at 800-882-7753...ask for Lazar. Their prices are very reasonable and you can have remanufactured parts in your hands within three business days if your schedule requires.

Now it is time to make a list of the parts required to reassemble the suspension. All the bushings, bolts, nuts and lock washers should be replaced without question. I order my parts from Moss Motors at 800-667-7872 and I always ask for Jason Laffey at extension 3126. He is extremely knowledgeable and helpful. The assembly bolts required can be bought from your local hardware store and are much less expensive than buying them through Moss. I used fine thread, grade 5 bolts, lock washers and nyloc nuts just to be on the safe side. I was able to reuse the brake caliper mounting bolts, the steering arm bolts and the shock absorber bolts, but I did use new lock washers. Do not trust the old ones.

My next post will be concerned with sandblasting and painting the suspension parts.

Later,

TD

FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION COMPLETED

It has been some time since my last post but the installation of the floor pans is now complete. My friend Paxton has done an amazing job. His welds are near perfect. I pity the guy that finds it necessary to remove these pans. These welds are intended to be permanent.

After the welds are cleaned with a wire brush wheel, seam sealer is applied to the area between the new pan and the frame of the car. With the sealer in place, spray a light coat of primer over the welded and sealed area to highlight any imperfections that may require additional work. Grind the welds and touch-up the seam sealer as required.

After the adjacent areas are sanded and cleaned a heavy coat of epoxy primer should be applied.

The trunk pan, since it will be exposed will require more work than the interior floor pans that will be covered by carpet.

My next post will address preparation of the interior floor pans to receive the seats.

WELDING NEW TRUNK PAN IN PLACE

After the old, rusty trunk pan is removed and the perimeter has been cleaned and is free from rust and grease. Now, drill or punch 5/16" holes about every 3" around the perimeter of the pan as shown. Now, you are ready to position the trunk pan.

Because it may be necessary to weld underneath the car, so it should be lifted at least 12 inches and placed securely on jack stands. Be sure the car is level from front to back and side to side. The new trunk pan requires the removal of the trunk latch bracket. The bracket is factory installed with four spot welds and is easily removed by drilling a 5/16" hole directly in the center of the weld. After the bracket is removed, the pan can be moved into place from underneath.

After the pan is in place and level in both directions the welding process can begin. Weld one or two of the perimeter holes on each side of the pan and check to make sure that the pan is still level. If the pan is not tight against the frame where it is to be welded, tap it gently with a hammer and weld that area immediately. Repeat the process until all the holes have been welded. Finally, reinstall the trunk latch bracket. The welding process is complete.

The next post will address preparing the new pan for primer and paint.

TD

PREPARING TO INSTALL THE NEW FLOOR PANS

It's been a while since my last post. I've been waiting on my friend Paxton to do the welding for me. Since I don't own a wire welder, it's cheaper to have someone do it for you...cheaper, not necessarily quicker.

I began by removing all the rust from the bonding surfaces and sealing the areas to be completely and permanently covered with POR. POR is a product that encapsulates rusty metal and virtually eleminates the need for further repairs. It is a bit pricey but worth every penney. But, be aware that you cannot use POR on surfaces to be joined by welding. Those surfaces will be coated with POR after the welding is completed because welded surfaces tend to rust quicker than usual.

My next post will deal with welding the floor pans in place.

Later

TD

BEGINNING THE BODY WORK

If you remember, I told you that both doors and the deck lid had been stolen before I purchased the car. I was fortunate enough to have a friend with a stockpile of MGB parts and among them was a rear deck lid and two doors. The only problem was, the car had been destroyed by fire. The deck lid was warped from the heat and the interior door trim had melted into every crevasse. I began by stripping the doors down to the metal...after all it was something that needed to be done anyway. It was a time consuming process but worth the effort. As you can see by the photo, they actually turned out pretty well. A little plastic filler and some epoxy primer and they are as good as new.

The deck lid, however, was a different story. The heat had warped it so badly, that it could not be saved. I decided to remove the warped 'skin' from the frame, refinish both sides of the frame and install a new 'skin'. I know it sounds complicated but it isn't. I purchased the 'skin' from The Roadster Factory. It was the only one to be found and it seemed to fit very well. I'll take you through it next time.

TD

REMOVING FLOOR PANS

FIRST, always wear safety glasses or preferrably a face shield, a dust mask and some good gloves. Now to begin...

The trunk floor pan and the cockpit floors were perforated with rust and required replacement. With the car on jack-stands, I began by removing the fuel tank, fuel pump and fuel lines all the way to the engine compartment. DO NOT GRIND AROUND FUEL...ONE SPARK AND YOU ARE TOAST !

Next, I cut through the rusted metal floor pans with a side grinder taking care not to cut any of the support beams beneath and around the outer edges. Next, remove the welded areas by drilling a hole at each spotweld and using a pneumatic chisel or hammer and chisel, seperate the floor from the frame. These floors were so rusty that portions of the supports were also compromised. It will be necessary to repair these supports prior to welding the new floor pans in place. The frame should be cleaned with a grinder or wire brush to remove all rust. You cannot weld rusty metal.

Before removing the trunk floor pan, take a good look at the new one. Notice how it is made and where and to what extent you should cut the existing floor. There is virtually no support under this section of floor. It is only supported around the edges. As with the cockpit floors, clean the edges to be welded with a grinder or wire brush to remove all rust.

Now you are ready to weld in the new floor pans.

Later,

TD